Town center of Viloria de Rioja
This morning I’m really feeling the need to talk to someone who isn’t on a quest to find themselves or the answer to life. It’s been a while since I’ve run into someone I feel like I really connect with in a conversation. I’m still trying to recover from one last blister so prefer not wearing hiking shoes (though I always carry them in case it rains because there’s no way I could walk in Teva sandals in red mud). My knee seems to be holding its own though the way I’m carrying myself is now putting a strain in my right hip and I can’t wait to reach Burgos (day after tomorrow), where I plan to spend 2-3 nights in civilization probably in a private room in a pension. And rest.
I liken this experience to Cape Cod in summer. Everyone wants to get out of the city and enjoy the ocean and as a result all the traffic jams are on the Cape instead of in Boston. The Camino at times seems like an endless stream of people chasing available beds. We had a whole discussion about this at the “new age” albergue where I stayed last night. It was nice to be in a small place with only ten, but we were also forced into the intimacy of sharing stories, which started to stress me out. One talked about how disappointing it was to have to reserve a bed rather than simply walking until you feel like stopping. The inn keeper (meditation guru?) said September was the worst for throngs of people – who knew? He said he didn’t love reservations because it wasn’t the spirit of the Camino but if it gave people peace of mind and freedom to walk at the pace they needed, he felt it was right. All I know is that if I couldn’t reserve a space and transport my pack, I’d probably be on a bus or holed up in a town for a week waiting for my knee to improve.
And people say that this is nothing compared to once you reach Sarria (the last 100km) where there are many more pilgrims! Well, I’ve never been one for Cape Cod in summer, so I suspect once I reach Sarria (assuming my leg lasts that long) I’ll be taking a bus to Santiago to deliver prayers. Seriously. Yet the walking and the landscape are really the best part of this.
So I get the stats. I know one day there were at least 20 of you reading this – from the US and Spain. (I get my thrills from watching the flags show up – I was getting US, France, UK, NZ, and Canada when I was in France) So who are you? You didn’t want me to do this on FB so you didn’t have to join, but it’s mostly the people on FB that sustain me by their comments there. So drop me a line. Tell me if this is at all interesting. I’m getting really bored with the one way conversation. And I’m really missing Spain – am dying to get off this road to actually connect with Spain. It seems a shame to be here but not be here. I’ve got 4 more weeks – what do you think I should do??!!
I keep seeing Sevilla in my mind.
Reflections on the Road 
Hi Nancy! I loved reading this. I’ve heard about the Camino but never in detail. Jeff’s uncle attempted it twice but found it really difficult. I think he may have been trying to do the whole thing. I’m not sure. Prayers of healing being said here for your knee. Be well and keep writing.
Hi Melissa
Thanks for writing. I’ve had plenty of highs but am at a low. I’ve done 100+ miles and have been to Santiago twice before so don’t really need to prove anything. Have loved the walking and scenery except the blisters and knee pain. Not sure what my next move will be after I make it to Burgos. Appreciate your support!
Sorry Nancy, it never occurred to leave a message here instead of FB. I’ve been enjoying the photos and the blog. But this last entry begs the question- you are on a pilgrimage(the route, not necessarily You personally), so I’d imagine most people would think that their personal quest would be the topic during jour. I guess that’s the difference between Eastern and Western philosophy. Buddhist would just spend two months sitting under a tree….only blisters might be on their butts!
Hey Betsy, thanks for writing. Actually this wasn’t meant for you because I hear from you a lot on FB! There are many who wanted me to do this off FB and I hear from only a few!
Sorry auto correct doesn’t do Francis, I wrote “du jour”!!!
Ha,ha, French, not Francis!!! Can I have my laptop back now??
Guess I too didn’t think of commenting here. This hike sounds like something I would like to do but I would need a year or so.
It doesn’t matter where you communicate with me – just that you do. Lots of people I meet wanted to do this “unplugged” and don’t check online communications. For me it keeps me sane to know I have people who care. I can’t imagine doing this without the emotional support from people I know. Clearly I would have been a failure at this in the Middle Ages!
Sorry to hear about your knee and toes (what happened to ‘head and shoulders’, ha,ha). I’d say pack it up and head to Sevilla and have some real fun with some real Spaniards. You can always do El Camino again (maybe I’ll tag along next time if I don’t have to carry a pack), but you don’t want to injure your knee any more than you have, and 100 miles is 100 miles more than I’ve done. So, I think you’ve done enough spiritual reflection, time for enjoyment. Do you believe I’m reading this while on the Cape? No traffic, no crowds in late September, and the sun is shining. Cool and crisp today, and it will be hot and muggy on Sunday (beach weather). What can I say, it’s New England! Can’t wait until your’e back. We’ll have to go to Dali’s and have some sangria to celebrate your return. Whatever you decide to do, take care, and listen to your body. It knows what’s best.
Ha, ha – that’s another song I can sing to keep myself amused in the road! This is definitely NOT our experience of hitch hiking in the 70s. Backpacks didn’t seem like a big deal then, but of course I was only carrying one to the bus or train station – or the side of the highway to hitch hike! And I wasn’t carrying gear for sleeping either! Start training and I’ll come back with you (assuming I still have a working knee!)
Greetings from one of the non-FB friends who is feeling more than a tad guilty. Sorry to have lagged in correspondence, but I can guarantee this note is from someone who isn’t on a quest to find herself or the answer to life. (At my age, I still don’t even know the question!) I hope your knee gets much better; I certainly hope you don’t have something torn or really damaged and not just normal wear-and-tear. Thank God you are somewhere where you have or soon will have diagnosis available if things haven’t improved enough. I haven’t the experience or chutzpah to give any any advice on what you should or shouldn’t do, but your having done 100+ miles make me think of the “Heartbreak Hill” moments I’ve read about. That’s a lot of miles; maybe your body and soul are just hitting a normal low that will pass. Sending you prayers and hugs as ever.
Hi Pat – No guilt! I’ve heard from you more than anyone, mostly via e-mail. I’m in better spirits due to good dinner company and the promise of a day’s rest where I get to be the first person to hang laundry! It’s the little things that keep me happy!
Hang in there! I’ve been following your adventure and thinking of and praying for you! And, if you need something less therapy-like and intimate, I will post more pictures of my cats on FB 🙂 (although for people like us that might actually be therapeutic…). Hugs!
Alexx – Thank you for the thoughts, prayers and cat pix! I do check into FB but often my accessibility gives me limited access. I need as many cat fixes as I can get !!
Hi, Nancy! I’m reading your blog and living vicariously/remembering through your accounts. I am so glad I don’t have to join face book to see them – thank you!
Sarah H.
Hi Sarah – I did not stay in Belorado because it didn’t make sense with my path. However, I recommended Cuatro Cantones to several people who enjoyed it very much. I liked the town a lot. I’m staying 2 nights in San Anton Abad in Villafranca to rest my leg and do laundry (which I haven’t done in 2 days due to rain and basic exhaustion!) Maybe you remember the albergue co-located with a hotel in a converted abbey? I’m glad they’re letting me stay a second night since I got in so late (4:30, and I was the last one in) I haven’t had time to appreciate the place. I asked this morning at 7:15 if I could stay a second night and they only had 2 beds left!
Thanks everyone – looks like I broke my own record on that one – 93 views by about 38 people in 4 countries! Makes me feel wanted!
It was a nice night with good company with more good company today – since I decided to stay put, rest up, enjoy the beautiful surroundings, and as Amy suggested, channel my inner extrovert!
All I can think of is singing “the long and winding road” If it must end now do to medical reasons you fought a good fight. Your pictures tell a grand story. Enjoy the rest of your time there in Spain whatever you do and whatever the future brings.
Thanks Jan. I’m especially happy to be with a nurse whose carrying Canadian Tylenol with codeine!
Hi Nancy,
Your journey sounds wonderful and hard but rewarding. I admire your determination to keep going. Love the commentary and the pictures. Will look forward to seeing you when you return. Enjoy the rest of your time there and take care of your knee. From someone who is having a slight problem kneeling and weeding.
God Bless and prayers to you on the rest of the trip.
Barb B.
Hi Barb – Thanks for writing. Glad you are enjoying the pictures and commentary. I appreciate any feedback. Hearing from people gives me a boost!