Preconceived Notions and Cranky Yankees

Church overlooking Población de Campos, viewed as you leave town

The 3 Brazilian Stooges (as they preferred to be called) in numerical order from right to left

Not so sure why I’m so focused on presenting the 3 Brazilian Stooges – perhaps because it’s the last time I really felt connected to other pilgrims. Not just them, but others at this albergue from two nights ago. I’ve already written about Población de Campos, but apparently my time there impressed me more than I realized. Or maybe it’s been a couple of not so fabulous days since then.

The neighborhood kitties come running when people snack in the courtyard of the hotel. The innkeeper said that only one belonged to the hotel and she’d be happy to let you take any of the others

That night at dinner I sat with a woman from New Zealand (born in Germany) a Swiss guy, a couple from England, an Australian, and a couple from France. The conversation switched between French and English as the New Zealander spoke good French and I could manage in it, while the French couple really spoke no other language. There was also a Japanese man and 3 people from the Middle East who sat apart from us. Only three of us were staying in the albergue, the rest in the hotel. It surprised me that more people from the albergue weren’t at dinner – there were about 20 there and there weren’t lots of choices in town. It was their loss as the paella was great and the woman had made us a special cake and we got a bonus after-dinner drink.

The innkeeper and her assistant made a beautiful paella for dinner. Dinner was in the hotel affiliated with the albergue. The hotel – albergue complex is very common. The albergue was in a former school next to the hotel. Too bad more pilgrims didn’t take advantage of this dinner.

Earlier that day – while passing through Frómista, I’d learned about a couple from New Hampshire. I’d stopped at the tourist info office and he asked where I was from. When I said Boston he explained that a couple from New Hampshire had just passed through and were close ahead of me. Since I was alone I thought I’d say hello. When I caught up to them the man was in a store and I said hello to the woman, explaining I was from nearby Boston. Her first words to me were: “one of your senators is trying to get rid of ours” (Scott Brown’s recent move to NH to run for senate) I learned they lived in Dover – not far from UNH – and that was about all. They moved on like they had no interest whatsoever in talking with me. A “neighbor” several thousand miles from home traveling alone. Nice to meet you!

At dinner I was with people from just about everywhere, all ages, all accommodating one another. The Australian, who was traveling with the British couple, not on the Camino, seemed particularly interested in learning more. The New Zealander shared with me that she’d met two German girls on horseback on the Camino. She ran into them behind the cathedral in Burgos! That had to be quite a sight! Their parents were traveling along with a car and trailer supplying hay for the horses!

This Saturday night seemed quite exceptional. We had a specially made cake for dessert and a bonus after-dinner drink of orujo, a local liquor. She explained the hotel was only a few years old and both her husband and father passed in the same month around the time of its opening.

I’d never heard of orujo until the night before and here they were selling it at the first cafe where I stopped the next day!

Circumstances of distances and available lodging over the next two days had me shipping my pack. Since I had to do that, I had to reserve in advance. And since there were no private albergues in Carrión I got a cheap single room in a pension with a shared bath. The upside is a good night’s sleep but the downside is being disconnected from other pilgrims. It’s ok for a night, but I don’t like going much longer than that.

 

Much of the next day was spent walking alongside a river on the way to Carrión de los Condes

Narrow mini bridge passage on the way to Carrión

I’m not sure if it was a home or a bar but it clearly was built into the hillside

Villalcázar de la Sirga was my first stop on the way to Carrion. The church was an interesting visit.

The rosette window of the church overlooks the tombs of Infante don Felipe and his wife doña Leonor

Pilgrim sculpture created to honor one of the characters known in this town, Villalcázar de la Sirga

Only 6 more km to Carrión, 463 to Santiago!

Now the reason it was important to stay in Carrión is that between there and the next town is about 18km with only one place to stop – a luxury hotel about a km out of town. So that means stocking up on food for the journey and getting ready to go 17 km without a real rest! Once again I shipped my pack.

The plaza of Santa María in Carrión, a border town known for a bloody past – revenge killings by El Cid for the mistreatment of his daughters. Will have to look up more details on that one

I sprang for a 15€ private room with a shared bath in a pension that night. My window overlooked the backside of the plaza

Leaving Carrión for the 18km trek with no town to stop in. Not sure what building this is, but it made a nice reflection in the river below.

From the outskirts of town to the Roman road is about 6 km. At that point you join a nice flat track that goes on for 11 km. it was a sunny day but there was a steady fall wind blowing. It had been a while since I’d walked this distance and it felt like it would never end. I stopped at the last rest area at the picnic table. Four English speakers stopped but avoided sitting with me (including the New Hampshire couple). Four French stopped and sat a bit closer (probably because there was no alternative) but not at the table with me. This was very odd – most people on the Camino are quite friendly – especially to those traveling alone. Had they all heard about Scott Brown and were offended I was from Massachusetts?!

Marker saying you are about to join the path of the original Roman road. I’m really glad they covered it with gravel because the last Roman road I was on was like being on the worn cobblestone of the historic parts of Boston – not particularly friendly to feet in hiking shoes

This Roman road went on for 11 km with no stops except 4 rest areas about every 3 km. I didn’t realize there were rest areas so ate my lunch in the shade of a tree before I reached the first one! I’d already gone 7 km that day!

I was happy to see this albergue as I entered Calzadilla de la Cueza. I’d shipped my pack here since I was walking 18 km, against doctor’s orders!

The arrival at the next albergue couldn’t come fast enough! I check in and who do I find? The charming couple from NH! Since they were retirement age and lived near UNH I thought I’d give it one more try. I know someone who recently retired from UNH and thought it’d be a shame if they knew him and I’d never asked. This time I approached the man when the wife was not around. I told him I was from Massachusetts and his first words to me were: you admit to that?! I told him I was quite happy to admit to that! I was hoping if we had an acquaintance in common that they’d start treating me better! We didn’t! After all was done I thought to myself: this is why the rest of the country thinks New Englanders aren’t friendly!! You’re giving us a bad name! They will forever be etched in my memory as the cranky Yankees (as in northerners, not Americans nor baseball players!) Seriously, New Englanders, if you have this attitude you need to get over yourselves!! And they say people from the big bad city of Boston aren’t friendly – I beg to differ!

 

These buildings made of earth and straw became common in this region – reminded me of adobe

That night I went over to the nearby bar for the pilgrim meal. There were 3 people at a table for 4 and they let me join them. Apparently they didn’t know about Scott Brown!! There was a 30something Swiss woman, an Italian American man recently retired from the Air Force, and an Italian man who was traveling with him. They’d all already walked more than 1000 km as they were walking the Camino aragonés! They said they averaged 30 km a day. I knew this was going to be a short relationship because I wouldn’t be doing that!

This field (wheat, I think) across from the albergue looked dramatically different each time I saw it. This was in the afternoon light – I imagine this is what the composer of “America the Beautiful” was thinking of when he wrote “amber waves of grain”

Same field in the morning light. Red sky – take warning? There’s been a constant cold wind blowing the last few days and rain is predicted for the near future

I left for Terradillos de los Templares in the morning with an overcast sky and a strong wind blowing. It had been like that for several days and the prediction for the next few days was for rain. So far I’d only had 2 mornings of it. Maybe it was time I paid my dues.

There are choices to be made when traveling from Calzadilla to Terradillos de los Templares – this one is the low road, along the highway. I was surprised to see almost everyone take it when the more scenic route was only 300 km longer (the length of a football field!)

This is the high road – through an attractive wooded area with birds chirping and little animals scurrying. My only concern was that if anything went wrong, there’d be no one around to help me out since no one was taking this road!

I was very happy to see this marker, as there weren’t many on the high road!

I made it to Terradillos with no rain, but that changed overnight. Things got better here – ironically, because I skipped a crowded dinner and shared my bread, cheese and olives with 2 Korean girls who provided the wine!

Arriving in Terradillos de los Templares, at the albergue named for the last knight Templar – Jacques de Molay

Grounds of the albergue. Very nice – I just wish it were warmer!

All settled into my luxury albergue bed – no upper bunk, sheets provided!

I think I’ve written enough for now. I’ll leave my evening with the Koreans for my next post!